With skinimalism now a well-established trend in the skincare industry, Bisabolol is an often-overlooked ingredient that aligns perfectly with its principles. Known for its soothing properties, its true power lies in boosting ingredient absorption, multiplying the effectiveness of formulations for brighter, younger-looking skin.
What is Bisabolol?
Bisabolol is a non-comedogenic, colourless, viscous oil sourced initially from German Chamomile Essential Oil, but now is more commonly sourced from the bark of a Candeia Tree. While Bisabolol can be synthetically sourced, synthetic Bisabolol only shows about 50% of the activity compared to the activity of naturally produced Bisabolol.
Note: Our Bisabolol is naturally produced :)
What does Bisabolol do in Skincare?
Bisabolol is best known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory benefits, but it offers much more:
- Skin Soothing: Bisabolol is great at reducing redness and irritation. That makes it perfect for acne, rosacea or after using active ingredients like acids or retinols that may irritate the skin. This may also be beneficial in after-shaves and creams for after waxing.
- Enhance Absorption: Bisabolol enhances the penetration of other active ingredients in your product, making your ingredients more effective with smaller amounts.
- Skin Brightening: Bisabolol is known for brightening complexion and countering hyperpigmentation due to it mildly preventing the pigmentation process (i.e. tyrosinase-inhibition).
- Antioxidant: Bisabolol combats free radicals, supporting skin health and preventing premature skin ageing.
- Antibacterial: Bisabolol shows both antibacterial and antimicrobial properties, making it helpful with acne, blemishes and minor skin infections.
Can Bisabolol be used in Hair Care?
Definitely! Bisabolol helps support a healthy scalp environment and would be a great addition to scalp treatments, shampoos and leave-in products. The application of Bisabolol in Hair Care would have benefits, like:
- Soothing the scalp and alleviating redness, flaking, and itchiness, particularly from harsh detergents and styling products.
- Maintaining scalp moisture balance and supporting barrier repair, essential for addressing dryness and promoting healthy hair growth.
- Bisabolol's penetration-enhancing abilities can help deliver active ingredients like Rosemary Essential Oil or Plant Extracts deeper into the scalp. This could make hair growth treatments or anti-dandruff products more potent.
- Its antioxidant properties reduces damage caused by UV exposure or environmental aggressors, which can weaken hair and lead to scalp aging.
- By soothing the scalp and softening hair strands, Bisabolol may enhance the overall feel and manageability of the hair, particularly for sensitive or dry hair types.
How does Bisabolol Enhance Penetration?
Bisabolol has a low molecular weight and lipophilic nature which allows it to penetrate the skin easily (lipophilic means that it combines really well with oil). This also increase the absorption of other lipophilic active ingredients like:
- Retinol
- Vitamin E
- Bakuchiol
- Rosehip Oil
- Co-Enzyme Q10
- Ceramides
- Vitamin C (oil-based)
- Essential Oils
- Infused Oils
- And other Oil-Based products
If you would like to maximize absorption, consider using an occlusive layer (like slugging) as the last step in your routine, preferably at night, perhaps adding occlusive ingredients to your moisturiser. This helps to lock all the products applied in place.
This also means that Bisabolol may not significantly improve the penetration of water-based ingredients like Niacinamide or Glycolic Acid, since Bisabolol is not water-soluble. This does not mean that it inhibits the absorption of water-based ingredients, just that the water-based ingredients would be absorbed at their normal rate.
A Quick Guide to formulating with Bisabolol:
What is the Solubility of Bisabolol?
Bisabolol is oil soluble. This makes it perfect for oil-based serums or balms.
If you would like to combine it with a water-based product, you would need to use an emulsifier or a solubiliser.
What is the recommended usage or concentration for Bisabolol?
Using a higher percentage would not necessarily cause toxicity in your product, it's just that a higher concentration would not lead to a greater benefit:
- Use at 0.5-1% for Soothing Benefits
- Use up to 1.5% for Penetration Enhancement.