Liquorice Root: An Ancient Herbal Remedy in Modern-day Skincare

Liquorice Root: An Ancient Herbal Remedy in Modern-day Skincare

Is your skin feeling more "meh" than "marvellous"? Meet Liquorice Root, your new skincare companion. Derived from the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant - this ancient remedy has a reputation that has found its way into the modern world of skincare, becoming a go-to ingredient for its powerful brightening, anti-inflammatory, and soothing effects.

How to Use Liquorice Root?

Liquorice root contains various active compounds that contribute to its effectiveness in both herbal remedies and skincare formulations. The most notable among these is glabridin, a potent antioxidant that helps to inhibit melanin/ skin pigment production. This makes it highly effective in treating melasma, dark spots, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and sun-induced spots.

It also has a wide range of pharmacological properties including anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, anti-osteoporosis, neuroprotection, and many other potential health-promoting effects. Additionally, liquiritin, another compound found in liquorice root, aids in dispersing and removing existing melanin, further enhancing skin tone.

Incorporated in skincare products, liquorice root can serve beautifully in a botanical extract and is particularly valued for treating hyperpigmentation, calming irritated skin, and providing antioxidant protection.

We cover more of this in Liquorice for Radiant Skin.

How Liquorice Root Benefits the Skin

Brightening and Even Skin Tone: Liquorice root is known for its ability to brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of dark spots. By inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, it helps to prevent and diminish hyperpigmentation, resulting in a more even complexion.

Anti-inflammatory Properties: Liquorice root has amazing anti-inflammatory effects, making it ideal for soothing irritated skin, reducing redness, and alleviating conditions like eczema, rosacea and even acne. Its ability to calm the skin also makes it suitable for sensitive skin types.

Antioxidant Protection: The antioxidants in liquorice root can help protect the skin from free radical damage, which can lead to premature aging.

Moisturisation and Hydration: Liquorice root extract is often combined with other ingredients to deeply hydrate the skin, making it an excellent choice for dry or dehydrated skin.

What is the Recommended Usage or Concentration for Liquorice Root?

In skincare formulations, liquorice root extract is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%. You can start with lower concentrations and gradually increase it to see how your skin reacts.

How to Safely Use Liquorice Root in Skincare

Patch Test:

As with any skincare ingredient, it's important to perform a patch test before applying liquorice root extract to your face. While it is unlikely to cause an actual allergy - depending on what other ingredients liquorice extract is mixed with, it can sometimes cause a reaction. By patch testing, you can determine if you have any sensitivities to the ingredient.

Sun Protection:

While liquorice root can help fade hyperpigmentation, it's crucial to pair it with a broad-spectrum sunscreen to prevent further sun damage. Sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher is recommended to protect your skin from UV rays and maintain the brightening effects of liquorice root.

Moisturisation:

Since liquorice root can be combined with other hydrating ingredients, using it in a serum or moisturiser can help keep your skin hydrated while reaping the benefits of its soothing properties.

Avoid Overuse:

Although liquorice root is generally gentle, it's best not to overuse products containing it, especially in combination with other potent actives like retinoids or strong exfoliants. Monitor your skin's reaction and adjust usage accordingly.

Monitor Skin Reaction:

If you experience any irritation, redness, or excessive dryness, consider reducing the frequency of use or discontinuing the product. Consult a dermatologist or skincare practitioner if necessary.

Interaction with Other Actives:

When used in conjunction with other potent ingredients, such as retinoids, AHAs, or BHAs, liquorice root could potentially increase the risk of irritation. We recommend avoiding these actives when incorporating our pigmentation buster serum in your skincare routine.

Customisable Pigmentation Buster Serum

Ingredients

Phase A:

74.4% Water

10.0% Aloe Vera Liquid Gel (provides hydration and stimulates the growth of new cells, which aids in wound healing and minimises scarring)

0.2% Sodium Gluconate (a natural chelating agent)

1.0% Allantoin (softens, protects, and soothes the skin, stimulates cell regeneration and healthy tissue production, has anti-irritation, and skin-healing properties.)

2.0% Ascorbyl Palmitate (an oil-soluble form of Vitamin C that provides antioxidant protection and brightens the skin)

2.5% Hyaluronic Acid Powder (provides intense hydration, plumps and moisturises the skin)

3.0% Liquorice Root Extract - glycerine/ water-based (brightens and soothes the skin, reduces hyperpigmentation) Read how to make a glycerine-based botanical extract or a water-based botanical extract. What you decide to incorporate is based on your personal preference and skin type. A water-based extract will result in a lighter, more refreshing serum that absorbs quickly and is ideal for oily or combination skin types and those who prefer a light feel. A glycerine-based extract may be more beneficial for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, or mature skin types, or if long-lasting hydration and a dewy finish are a priority. Ultimately, it is up to you.

Phase B:

3.0% 1, 3 Propanediol (solvent and humectant)

0.9% Guar Gum (improves the texture and stability of the serum)

Phase C:

2.0% Tamanu Oil (provides nourishment, promotes healing and new tissue formation, and has anti-inflammatory properties)

0.1% Vitamin E Oil (antioxidant, protects the skin from environmental stressors)

0.9% Geogard 221 (natural preservative)

Method

1. Combine ingredients in phase A under low shear until homogenously mixed.

2. Combine ingredients in phase B under low shear until a slurry forms. Add to phase A and stir under high shear until homogenous.

3. Combine materials in phase C. Add slowly to phase A/B under low shear. Stir until homogenous.

4. pH Adjustment: Check the pH of the serum and adjust as necessary to ensure it falls within a skin-friendly range. Which is around 5.5

5. Final Step: Decant the serum into a pipette or pump bottle for easy application. Store in a cool, dark place.

This brightening and soothing serum can be applied to clean, dry skin, preferably at night. Its combination of liquorice root extract, hyaluronic acid, and tamanu oil works to hydrate, calm, and brighten your complexion, leaving you with a radiant and even skin tone.

References:

Pharmacological properties of glabridin (a flavonoid extracted from licorice): A comprehensive review - ScienceDirect

Cosmetics | Free Full-Text | Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients (mdpi.com) 

Glycyrrhiza glabra (Licorice): A Comprehensive Review on Its Phytochemistry, Biological Activities, Clinical Evidence and Toxicology - PMC (nih.gov) 

FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF SKIN AND HAIR BENEFITS OF LIQUORICE ROOT

Cayla Mandean

With a passion for skincare, wellness, and storytelling, Cayla is here to cut through the clutter and empower you with clear, research-backed, actionable knowledge to elevate your beauty routine and well-being. If she’s not outside in nature, at the gym, reading or spending time with her loved ones, you will find her creating clear, impactful content that inspires and informs. Her goal? To make sure you feel confident in your choices and enjoy the journey to an empowered, happier you!