In the world of hair care, bond repair has become all the rage, promising to rejuvenate and strengthen even the most damaged locks. Whether it's due to heat styling, chemical treatments, or environmental stress, our hair goes through a lot. Understanding how to repair these bonds and restore our hair's natural strength and shine is essential for maintaining healthy growing and manageable hair.
At the heart of this process is the use of specialised ingredients that target hair at the molecular level. One such ingredient class is certain hydrolyzed proteins.
How Does Bond Repair Work?
The health of hair depends on the integrity of the keratin/protein structure and the bonds that hold it together. Understanding the science behind hair structure, including the role of the hair matrix and the various bonds, is key to helping protect hair from damage.
(Note: Keratin is a type of protein, hence keratin/protein structure)
Hair is primarily composed of a protein called keratin, which is organised into a structure held together by various types of bonds (e.g., disulfide bonds, hydrogen bonds, salt bonds). Hair is exposed to various damaging factors, including heat (from styling tools), chemicals (from dyes, perms, and relaxers), mechanical stress (from brushing or styling), and environmental stressors (such as UV radiation and pollution). These factors can break the bonds within the hair structure, leading to damage.
Bond repair products typically aim to restore disulfide bonds, which are the strongest and most critical bonds in hair. These bonds contribute significantly to the hair's strength and stability. We know that hydrolyzed proteins are great in hair products, but can we classify it as an alternative for typical ingredients used for bond repair? Let's evaluate.
Understanding the Best Hydrolyzed Proteins for Bond Repair
1. Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein:
Composition: Hydrolyzed wheat protein is composed of smaller peptides and amino acids derived from wheat.
Function: It adds moisture, forms a film on the hair, and provides some strengthening benefits. Its primary function is moisture retention.
2. Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein:
Composition: This is derived from jojoba seeds, rich in amino acids.
Function: Jojoba protein is wonderfully moisturising and provides shine and lustre to hair, and conditions and repairs damage. Known for conditioning, softening, and smoothing properties, it also forms a protective film but is more focused on surface conditioning than repairing internal protein structures.
3. Hydrolyzed Vegetable Keratin:
Composition: Derived from a mix of plant proteins, designed to mimic natural keratin, consisting of a wide range of amino acids.
Function: Since keratin is the primary protein in hair, using a hydrolyzed form allows for better penetration into the hair shaft. The smaller peptide molecules can help fill in the gaps where natural keratin has been lost, directly contributing to strengthening hair. It primarily helps with superficial damage and improves elasticity.
4. Hydrolyzed Marine Collagen:
Composition: Collagen is a protein not naturally found in hair, but it contains amino acids that your body can use to produce keratin, the main protein in hair. Marine collagen is derived from deep-water fish and is known for its moisturising properties and ability to improve skin and hair hydration.
Function: While it's a great moisturiser and can add some firmness, it doesn't directly contribute to repairing the keratin/protein structure or bonds in the hair.
Effective bond repair relies on replenishing or mimicking the hair's natural proteins, particularly keratin because it's specifically involved in the structural integrity of the hair. Out of the four Hydrolyzed Protein options we evaluated and compared above, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Keratin is the most suitable natural alternative to conventional bond repair products and beneficial ingredient for enhancing hair strength and repairing superficial damage. While natural alternatives like Hydrolyzed Vegetable Keratin may not repair disulfide bonds as effectively, they can still contribute to healthier, stronger hair over time.
How to Incorporate Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein into Your Hair Care Routine and Formulations
There are various ways to include hydrolyzed vegetable protein in your hair care regimen:
1. Shampoos and Conditioners
Protein-Infused Shampoos: Look for shampoos that contain hydrolyzed vegetable protein. These can help reinforce hair bonds during the washing process without stripping the hair of its natural oils. We share a lovely, all-natural shampoo recipe later on in this blog.
Protein Conditioners: After shampooing, use a conditioner with hydrolyzed vegetable protein to add strength and moisture. Conditioners with this protein can help smooth the hair cuticle and repair minor damage.
2. Leave-In Treatments
Leave-In Conditioners, Serums or Hair Mists: Incorporating a leave-in product that includes hydrolyzed vegetable protein can provide ongoing protection throughout the day. This treatment continues to nourish the hair and helps in maintaining moisture balance. Explore some of our serum and hair mist recipes here.
3. Deep Conditioning and Protein Masks
Protein Hair Masks: Use a deep conditioning mask that contains hydrolyzed vegetable protein once a week. This intensive treatment can help repair deeper damage by providing concentrated doses of protein.
DIY Protein Masks: You can explore some of our recent recipes here.
4. Styling and Scalp Treatments
Heat Protectants: Some heat protectant sprays and serums include hydrolyzed vegetable protein. These products not only protect your hair from heat damage but also provide an additional layer of protein to strengthen hair.
Curl Definers and Gels: If you use styling gels or creams, opt for those with hydrolyzed vegetable protein. They can help define curls or smooth hair while reinforcing the hair's structure. Explore a balancing and hydrating scalp gel recipe here or try our exfoliating scalp gel here.
Tips for Formulating with Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
- Concentration: Typically, hydrolyzed vegetable protein is used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5% of the total formulation, depending on the desired strength and purpose of the product. Higher concentrations are generally used in deep conditioning treatments or hair masks.
- pH Consideration: Ensure that the final product's pH is compatible with the hair's natural pH (around 4.5 to 5.5). Hydrolyzed vegetable protein is stable across a wide pH range but works best in slightly acidic environments.
- Compatibility with Other Ingredients: Hydrolyzed vegetable protein can be combined with other conditioning agents, humectants, and emollients to enhance its effects. Commonly used ingredients include D-Panthenol (provitamin B5), vegetable glycerine, and natural oils like argan or coconut oil.
