July 29, 2021 4 min read

Exfoliating Body Wash 

This week we’re playing around with our new exfoliator, jojoba beads! Jojoba beads are the natural, plastic-free and biodegradable alternative to exfoliating microbeads found in cleansing products - and we’re really enjoying working with them. Let’s make up a good old exfoliating body wash.

 

Choosing Ingredients

For our body wash we’re choosing two liquid surfactants, decyl and coco glucoside. These are both mild and make lovely foam, perfect for a body wash.

 

We like including a little  carrier oil for moisturising factor, but you can leave this out. Keep in mind that including an oil will make the body wash milky or white. If you want a clear body wash, leave the oil out and perhaps consider formulating with  hydroxyethyl cellulose instead of xanthan gum, as HEC creates lovely clear gels. Keep in mind that HEC does not like non-ionic surfactants however, so you will need to use an anionic surfactant such as  Hostapur OS Liquid (Sodium C14-16 alpha olefin sulfonate) or  sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.

 

Xanthan gum for thickening - you can play around with the quantity to create a thicker or thinner body wash. We find it easier to pre-prepare the gel part ahead, and then simply mix the surfactants and the rest of the ingredients into this. This way you can easily control the consistency of the body wash. However you can also simply add all ingredients to a beaker and blend until well combined.

 

We’re using  jojoba beads as the featured exfoliant. Our jojoba beads are Ecocert/COSMOS approved and made from hydrogenated castor and jojoba oils. They are white in colour, so if you would like to show them up in your product, add a colourant.

 

A preservative is a must as this formulation contains water. We’re using Saliguard BDHA, but Geogard 221 is a perfect alternative.

 

Lastly, you will need to adjust the final pH down with a citric acid solution as the surfactants used have a high pH. You can make up a citric acid 10% solution by dissolving 1g of citric acid in 9g of water.

 

Making Up Your Formulation

First up we need to decide on and calculate the active surfactant matter (ASM) we want our body wash to have. If you need a refresher on this, please read  A Beginner’s Guide To Surfactants.

Say we want an ASM of about 20% for our body wash. Both coco and decyl glucoside have an ASM of 55% so we can just calculate for the total ASM and then divide in half to get the ASM for each:

20/.55= 36.36% (we round this up to 36.5% for ease of calculating).

Divide this in two and we have the amount of decyl and coco glucoside to use. The rest of the formula will be made up of water, some moisturising oil, jojoba beads, a preservative and any other actives you would like to include.

This first version contains some moisturising oil, and will be white in colour (unless you decide to add a colourant).

 

Exfoliating Body Wash Version 1

18.25%  decyl glucoside

18.25%  coco glucoside

4%  carrier oil of choice 

51% water

4%  jojoba beads

1.5%  xanthan gum - you can increase this amount to achieve a thicker gel if you prefer

2%  vegetable glycerine

1% preservative -  Saliguard or  Geogard 221

Citric acid solution to adjust the pH as required

pH test strips

Optional extras:   essential oil(s) for fragrance,  mica for colour, other  actives

glass bottle - don’t use a pump bottle as the exfoliating beads get stuck in the suction device

 

This formula is cold processed meaning there’s no heating involved! Make up the gel part first by blending the xanthan gum with the glycerine, then adding the water and whizzing together until a gel consistency is achieved. Blend in all the rest of the ingredients. Check the pH and adjust down to around 5.5 with the citric acid solution, then decant into a glass bottle and enjoy!

 

I used the  Chai Spice essential oil blend to scent my personal body wash and it’s great!

 

The next version is more clear, so if you prefer a clear, gel-like body wash then give this a try.

Exfoliating Body Wash Version 2

66.5%  sodium lauroyl sarcosinate

1.5% hydroxyethyl cellulose - you can increase this amount to achieve a thicker gel

25% water

2%  vegetable glycerine

4%  jojoba beads

1% preservative -   Saliguard or  Geogard 221

Citric acid solution to adjust the pH as required

pH test strips

Optional extras:  essential oil(s) for fragrance,  mica for colour, other  actives

glass bottle - don’t use a pump bottle as the exfoliating beads get stuck in the suction device

 

Make up the gel part first by blending the hydroxyethyl cellulose with the glycerine, then adding the water and whizzing together until a gel consistency is achieved. Blend in all the rest of the ingredients. Check the pH and adjust down to around 5.5 with the citric acid solution, then decant into a glass bottle and enjoy!


2 Responses

Juliette
Juliette

November 08, 2021

Hi Ria, both the colourant and the jojoba beads stayed suspended in my formulations :)

As long as the viscosity is think enough the jojoba beads will stay suspended. Obviously if the body wash were very thin then they might settle out, but I didn’t have any problems.

I don’t have a source for the acrylates crosspolymer, but it just works as a thickener. Here we use xanthan gum or hydroyethyl cellulose as thickeners and gel makers (which help suspend), so the crosspolymer isn’t necessary.

So glad you like our products! :)

Ria Hill
Ria Hill

November 08, 2021

Hi I bought the ingredients form Essentially Natural to make the body wash. I have a question about the jojoba beads and the mica powder.
Will the jojoba beads and Mica mix with the rest of the ingredients and be suspended in the mixture or will it lie on the bottom of the body wash.

I hope you can give me some advise. I was told that `I need Carbopol Aqua SF-1, that is the trade name. INCI name – Acrylates Copolymer in my formulation for it to suspend. As I understand it is expensive and now easily available in small quantities. Do I need to use this in my body wash?

Thank you for your great service. I am super impressed with everything that I buy from your company.

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