Where can I buy High-Quality Serums and Essences

The Real Basics of Skincare: What You Actually Need

Cayla Mandean

If you've ever watched someone pat, tap, and layer their way through a 10-step skincare routine, you might assume that's what your skin requires to look healthy and radiant.

Can I share a secret with you? The results you desire for your skin aren't found in an elaborate routine… it just needs a thoughtful one.

Whether you want a fresh, dewy glow, trying to calm breakouts naturally, reduce dark spots or simply want your skin to feel balanced and healthy, your routine should be tailored to your skin concerns, not what's trending.

And the best place to start is with the essentials, evidence-based basics, built from simple, natural ingredients.

The Real "Basics" of an Effective Skincare Routine

Most people only need three core steps to maintain a healthy, resilient and comfortable skin barrier. This includes:

1. A Cleanser

This step comes first in almost any routine. It removes sweat, excess oil, sunscreen, make-up and impurities. Using a cleanser without harsh ingredients gently cleanses without stripping your skin of its natural oils (lipids) or compromising the skin barrier.

However, it is possible to overdo it. Over-cleansing, using harsh surfactants, or exfoliating too frequently can weaken the skin barrier. A compromised barrier leads to increased water loss, irritation, inflammation, and greater sensitivity to both irritants and microbes.

A cleanser, suited to your skin type, is key to supporting your skin barrier and keeping redness, dryness, and breakouts under control.

How often you cleanse also depends on your unique skin needs. For example, some people with dry skin may find it better to wash just once a day, while those with oilier or acne-prone skin might benefit from cleansing twice daily to remove excess oil and impurities without over-stripping. In fact, anything to do with skincare is about finding what works best for you.

2. Moisturiser

As the second step in a core skincare routine, a moisturiser locks in hydration. By forming a protective layer on the surface and replenishing lipids, it prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the natural evaporation of moisture from the skin. This keeps the skin plump, soft, and flexible, supporting barrier function and preventing dryness, irritation, and sensitivity.

Choosing one tailored to your skin type ensures it addresses your specific needs, whether calming redness, preventing breakouts, or combating dryness.

Evidence shows that the right moisturiser supports long-term barrier repair, reduces sensitivity, and helps maintain a healthy, youthful appearance over time. Skipping this step or using the wrong moisturiser can leave skin reactive, dehydrated, and more prone to irritation.

3. SPF 30+

Sunscreen is the single most important step in any skincare routine, providing both anti-aging and protective benefits.

UV exposure drives up to 80% of visible skin aging, including texture changes, dark spots, and fine lines, while also increasing the risk of skin cancer.

Mineral sunscreens, containing non-nano zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, physically block and scatter UVA and UVB rays, offering broad-spectrum protection with a lower risk of irritation, making them generally well-tolerated by all skin types and often recommended for sensitive skin. Regular use preserves skin health, prevents premature aging, and supports long-term resilience.

For daily protection, dermatologists generally recommend using a broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30. As we embrace the warmer weather, outdoor activities like swimming or hiking become more common. So, remember that sunscreen isn't just a morning step. It needs to be reapplied regularly to maintain effective protection.

4. Toner (Optional)

A toner or floral water mist is an optional step in a basic skincare routine that helps refresh and soothe the skin. Ingredients like rose or chamomile water can provide mild antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, calm irritation, and enhance the skin's comfort.

Used after cleansing, it helps prepare the skin to absorb the next steps in your routine more effectively, supporting overall results while keeping the skin barrier balanced and intact.

It can also be spritzed throughout the day, especially on hot summer days, to provide a cooling effect to the skin.

So your foundational skincare routine looks like:

Cleanser → (Toner) → Moisturiser → SPF

Targeted Actives: How to Level Up Your Skincare Routine

Once your basic skincare routine is well-established, you can begin adding targeted ingredients based on your specific skin goals. These targeted ingredients are called active ingredients (or actives).

Active ingredients are components in skincare products that are scientifically proven to create specific changes in the skin, such as reducing acne, improving hydration, brightening dark spots, or softening fine lines. Examples include retinoids, vitamin C and alpha and hydroxy acids.

Think of actives as upgrades, not replacements, for your core routine. Your foundational routine (cleanser, moisturiser, sunscreen) keeps the skin healthy and supported, while actives provide extra benefits to address particular concerns.

Below are examples of evidence-based actives that support a range of different skin needs:

Niacinamide (all skin types, especially oily + uneven tone)

Niacinamide (a form of vitamin B3) is a gentle, well-researched ingredient suitable for basically all skin types. And if you have oily or uneven-toned skin, you've probably come across this ingredient before. It supports multiple skin functions at once, making it one of the most versatile actives. Niacinamide helps regulate oil production, strengthen the skin barrier, and improve overall skin clarity and smoothness.

It helps by:

  • Brightening the skin and improving uneven tone
  • Reducing redness and calming irritation
  • Minimising the appearance of pores by balancing oil and improving skin texture

Bisabolol (sensitive or irritated skin)

Bisabolol is a soothing active compound naturally derived from chamomile. It is well known for its calming, anti-inflammatory, and skin-restorative properties, making it especially beneficial for sensitive, reactive, or easily irritated skin. Bisabolol helps strengthen the skin's barrier and supports the healing process while reducing visible redness and discomfort.

It helps by:

  • Calming irritation and reducing sensitivity
  • Minimising redness with gentle anti-inflammatory action
  • Supporting the skin's healing process
  • Soothing stressed or reactive skin and promoting comfort

Green Tea Extract (oily, irritated, acne-prone)

Green Tea Extract is naturally rich in catechins, particularly EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate), a powerful antioxidant. These compounds help calm irritation, reduce inflammation, and neutralise free radicals that can contribute to skin damage. Because of its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, green tea extract is especially beneficial for oily, irritated, and acne-prone skin.

It helps by:

  • Reducing inflammation and calming irritated skin
  • Fighting free-radical damage and supporting skin resilience against environmental stressors
  • Soothing acne-prone skin and supporting a clearer, more balanced complexion

Salicylic Acid (natural willow bark extract for acne-prone skin)

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its ability to deeply penetrate pores. Because it is oil-soluble, it can break down excess sebum and dissolve the buildup of dead skin cells inside the pores. This makes it especially effective for treating blackheads, whiteheads, congestion, and acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid also has mild anti-inflammatory properties, helping calm redness and reduce the appearance of active breakouts.

It helps by:

  • Reaching inside pores to clear out trapped oil and dead skin
  • Preventing and reducing blackheads, whiteheads, and congestion

Willow bark extract contains a natural BHA precursor (salicin) that the skin can convert into a salicylic acid-like compound. While gentler than synthetic salicylic acid, it still offers similar benefits. It helps:

  • Unclog pores by loosening dead skin and excess oil
  • Smooth skin texture through mild exfoliation
  • Reduce blackheads by minimising buildup within pores over time.

Rosehip Oil (mature, dry, uneven skin tone)

Rosehip Oil is a nutrient-rich botanical oil known for its ability to deeply nourish the skin and support a more even, radiant complexion. It's naturally high in vitamin A (as provitamin A carotenoids), which the skin can convert into retinoic acid, offering gentle skin-renewing benefits. It also contains essential fatty acids that help strengthen the skin barrier and improve moisture retention. Its natural antioxidants also help protect the skin from environmental stress.

It helps by:

  • Reducing the appearance of fine lines
  • Supporting skin elasticity
  • Enhancing moisture and restoring the skin barrier
  • Helping improve tone and texture
  • Providing antioxidant protection for healthier-looking skin

Hyaluronic or Triluronic acid (mature, dry or dehydrated skin)

These are both great humectants. This means that they attract and hold water in the skin. For a detailed comparison and an extremely helpful guide on when to use each one, please click the link here.

For now, here's what they do:

  • Deeply hydrates the skin by drawing in and retaining moisture at multiple levels
  • Plumps the skin's surface for a smoother, softer appearance
  • Reduces the look of fine lines caused by dehydration
  • Supports the skin barrier to improve moisture retention and resilience

These ingredients are just some of the amazing active ingredients we stock and highly recommend.

Active ingredients are most commonly found in serums, which are formulated to deliver concentrated benefits and address specific skin concerns. You can also find actives in moisturisers or toners, but it's important not to layer too many products containing the same type of active ingredient, as this can increase the risk of irritation.

If one product already includes a certain active, it's usually more effective to pair it with a complementary active in another step rather than doubling up.

Serums are one of the most common products that contain targeted active ingredients, often in higher concentrations. Like toners, they are an entirely optional step. They simply offer an extra boost if your skin needs it or if you enjoy a more tailored, comprehensive routine.

Once your foundational routine is in place, you can build on it with an additional step if desired. Your routine might look like this:

Cleanser → (Toner) → (Serum) → Moisturiser → SPF

But did you know you can skip the serum and use an essence instead? Some people even like to use both, depending on their skin's needs.

What are the main differences between a serum and essence in skincare

Essence vs Serum for Skincare: Which is Better for Your Skin?

When you think about an Essence, you can think of it as your skin’s first drink of water. It is:

  • Lightweight, hydrating, and designed to prep the skin
  • Watery texture
  • Helps improve the absorption of the products that come next in your routine
  • Great for dehydrated or sensitive skin that needs gentle nourishment

A serum, on the other hand, is like your skin’s targeted treatment shot. A potent boost delivered exactly where it’s needed. It can be oil-based, water-based and even pressed. It is:

  • More concentrated and targeted
  • Thicker texture
  • Formulated to address specific concerns such as dark spots, fine lines, or acne
  • Ideal when you want potent, results-driven ingredients

Is it Better to use a Serum or an Essence?

Use an essence if:

  • Your skin is dehydrated, sensitive, or easily irritated
  • You prefer lightweight layers

Use a serum if:

  • You have specific concerns (e.g., pigmentation, acne, aging)
  • Your skin tolerates active ingredients well

Use both if:

  • You enjoy layering skincare
  • You want hydration and targeted treatment
  • Your skin handles multiple steps comfortably
  • You simply want to

Now, if you’re like me and you just want to add lightweight hydration to your skin, especially in the hot summer weather, you would benefit from making our:

How to make a essence for my natural skincare routine

DIY Hyaluronic Acid & Collagen Botanical Essence

A lightweight, deeply hydrating, skin-soothing essence that leaves your complexion dewy, plump, and refreshed. It gives your skin that refreshing “first drink of water” without feeling heavy, sticky, or overwhelming. It is honestly perfect for warm climates or anyone who prefers minimal, breathable skincare.

Ingredients:

Phase A:

79.2% Chamomile Hydrosol or hydrosol of choice or water (calms irritation, reduces redness, supports healing, and soothes sensitive skin)

5% Green Tea Glycerite  (antioxidant-rich, fights free radicals, reduces inflammation, and brightens the complexion)

4% Marine Collagen (plumps skin, improves elasticity and smooths the appearance of fine lines. And just to bust a myth: while it’s great at supporting and hydrating the outer layers, it doesn’t magically rebuild or increase your natural collagen deeper in the skin.)

Pinch of Xanthan Gum (adds slight thickness and smooth texture)

Phase B:

6% Hyaluronic Acid (draws moisture in for dewy hydration) 

3% Olivem 300 (light emollient, enhances skin softness, helps blend ingredients, and gives a smooth, non-greasy feel)

2% Olive Squalane (strengthens skin barrier, prevents moisture loss, adds silky slip, and protects against environmental stress)

0.8% Geogard 221 (natural-friendly preservative) 

Method:

1. Sanitise bottles, tools, and workspace.

2. In a beaker, combine the Phase A ingredients. Stir until the Xanthan Gum dissolves completely.

3. Add the Hyaluronic Acid and mix gently.

4. Then slowly mix in the Olivem 300.

5. Slowly add and mix in the Olive Squalane (may go slightly cloudy. That’s fine).

6. Add in the Geogard 221 and stir thoroughly.

7. Optional: double-check pH, aim for ~4.5–5.5.

8. Bottle in a pump or dropper bottle.

To use, apply 2-4 pumps/drops of your essence onto clean, damp, intact skin after cleansing (and toner, if you use one) but before serums and moisturiser.

Follow with serum (or use it in place of a serum). Finish with your moisturiser, and in the morning, always apply SPF as your final step.

After testing this product myself, I can confidently say you’re going to love it. One of the best parts of a customised skincare routine is seeing results that truly reflect your skin’s needs, your preferences, budget and desires. Your skin will feel softer, smoother, more hydrated, and noticeably more comfortable. You will experience reduced tightness and less flakiness over time. 

For someone with acne-prone skin, this essence is perfect as an added step to my basic skincare routine this summer. 

To reiterate, you don’t need a 10-step routine, but you do need an intentional, personalised one. And remember, skincare starts from within. So always take a holistic approach to looking after your skin.

Is there a product you’re thinking about making or adding to your routine? Maybe a mask or an exfoliator? There are definitely a few tips on how often to use them if you want to see real results. Let me know in the comments below. 

References: 

Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review - PMC

(PDF) The Science of Skincare: Exploring Products, Ingredients and Skincare Routine

Hydration Essentials

1 4
View all

Related Reads

1

Cayla Mandean

With a passion for skincare, wellness, and storytelling, Cayla is here to cut through the clutter and empower you with clear, research-backed, actionable knowledge to elevate your beauty routine and well-being. If she’s not outside in nature, at the gym, reading or spending time with her loved ones, you will find her creating clear, impactful content that inspires and informs. Her goal? To make sure you feel confident in your choices and enjoy the journey to an empowered, happier you!


Back to the Essentially Natural blog

Leave a comment.

Kindly note that comments require approval before being published.