Working With D-Panthenol

Working With D-Panthenol

Derived from Vitamin B5, D-Panthenol gel is simply fabulous in natural hair care and skin care products. It is deeply conditioning and softening, and lends a wonderful feel to skin and hair products.

What Does D-Panthenol Do?

Panthenol And Skin

In skincare, panthenol acts as a humectant by drawing water from deeper layers of the skin into the upper layers of the skin, giving a plumper and more hydrated look and feel. It helps with softness and elasticity, and stimulates skin re-generation.

Panthenol And Hair 

In hair care, panthenol is able to penetrate the hair strands, providing hydration and increasing elasticity, reducing static, dryness and breakage, and making hair shinier, softer and more conditioned. No wonder it is a favourite in shampoos!

D panthenol is really easy to work with - let's find out more:

The Solubility Of D-Panthenol

Panthenol comes as a viscous gel and is water soluble. You will not be able to use it in anhydrous body and hair butters (without an emulsifier at least). Make sure you include it in spritzers/toners, moisturisers and serums containing water to get the benefits.

The pH Of D-Panthenol

Panthenol typically has a pH of around 8-9 but you will be bringing this down to more skin friendly levels of 4-5.5 when formulating products.

The Usage Rate of D-Panthenol

The recommended usage rate is 0.5-1%. More than that and things may start to feel a little sticky.

As mentioned, panthenol is water soluble so you need to add it to your water phase. It is also heat sensitive so I advise adding it to your cool down phase, dissolving it in a little water taken from the water phase.

What Works Well With D-Panthenol?

Panthenol is a pretty friendly ingredient and doesn't clash with anything.

It goes well with all other water based ingredients, but to use it with oils you will need to use an emulsifier.

Which Products Contain D-Panthenol?

D-Panthenol is most commonly found in hair care products, but I love it in skin care products as well. You can use it in serums, moisturisers, and anything containing water to get that conditioned and hydrated feel.

Tips For Working With D-Panthenol

Some of our customers contact us in surprise when they see how thick the D panthenol is, asking how to work with it.

This is how I do it: I get two chattaway spatulas, scoop some panthenol out the jar with one and then manipulate it off with the other. It's not too hard actually! Then add it to a small amount of water taken from your water phase to dilute it so it incorporates better into your formula.

You could try adding panthenol to a hydrosol for a quick and easy way of incorporating it into your skincare/hair care routine.

(or in layman's terms, a tiny scoop of panthenol in your 50ml or 100ml hydrosol spritzer).

Shake up well to dissolve it then spritz on as a hydrating toner.

 

Juliette van der Meer

BSc, BScH, PGCE, Adv Dip Cosmetic Science

Cosmetic scientist