E45 Cream Substitute
Juliette van der MeerWhile I mostly use my own skincare products, I'm not above trying some of the traditional bestsellers on the market (for research purposes of course, wink wink). Having very dry skin, I find E45 cream to be incredibly effective.
Why Does E45 Work?
While E45 cream is primarily composed of petroleum derivatives, there is no doubt that it does work exceptionally well. Funnily enough, it only works because it seals and protects the skin barrier well, not because of any fancy active ingredient. Petroleum is without doubt a great skin emollient despite its rather icky origins; and protecting the skin barrier and preventing transepidermal water loss is the key to treating dry skin and eczema.
I set myself the task of creating a natural version of E45 cream and this led me down quite the rabbit hole in my lab.
Attempting A Vegan E45
At first I was dead set on creating a vegan dupe. I work almost exclusively with vegan ingredients so of course I set to work with what I had on hand. A week, countless trials and a whole bunch of ingredients later, I still wasn't able to achieve the perfect natural E45 cream dupe. I had the consistency and texture down, and the skin feel was nearly there except for an annoying draginess from thickeners which I couldn't seem to get rid of without losing the consistency.
Submission
Finally I gave in and decided to rather make a non-vegan version using lanolin. Lanolin is the grease found on sheep's wool and is a by-product of the wool industry, and it is the closest natural alternative to petroleum/vaseline. It has incredible moisturising and barrier-protecting qualities and is commonly found in creams for eczema and dry skin. Coming from sheep's wool it's just unfortunately not vegan, so if you are vegan then please skip the rest of this blog.
Lanolin - The Savior
The lanolin was a game changer. It worked very well in place of the petroleum, and I'm pretty pleased with the final product. I've been trialing it out for the past 10 days and it has definitely made a difference for my dry skin. This new moisturiser will be my new go-to for the winter months.
The Other Ingredients In This Substitute
I included some protective Vitamin E and bisabolol in the formula, but feel free to substitute for other nice ingredients such as Co enzyme Q10, Vitamin A, or other oils. You could also add in some water based ingredients, just take from the water amount to make room for them in the formula.
19 comments
Hi there Juliana,
Thank you for your GREAT questions – I’m super happy to help clarify :)
For this recipe, we recommend using anhydrous lanolin BP rather than PEG-75 lanolin or flakes.
- Lanolin BP behaves most similarly to petrolatum, which is what we’re trying to mimic in an E45-style cream.
- PEG-75 lanolin is a water-soluble, chemically modified form and would change the feel and structure of the cream, so it’s not ideal here.
- Lanolin flakes could work theroretically, but they’ll need thorough melting and can be a bit trickier to incorporate evenly.
As for the oil phase:
- Yes, you can absolutely use different liquid oils like grapeseed, argan, or castor oil.
- Lighter oils (like grapeseed) will give a lighter skin feel, while heavier oils (like castor) will make the cream richer and more occlusive.
Regarding shea butter:
You can replace part of the liquid oil with shea butter, but we wouldn’t recommend swapping all the oil for butter.
Shea butter will make the cream thicker and heavier and may change the glide and absorption. If you’d like to use shea, a good approach is to replace a portion of the oil (for example 5–10%) rather than the full amount.
I hope that helps, please do reach out if you have any further queries. <3
Wishing you an absolutely lovely festive season,
Essentially Natural Support
Hi, Do you recommend using lanolin bp or the flakes, peg 75 for the creeam recipe? And one can use any appropriate oil (grapeseed oil, argan, castor oil)? Or would shea butter instead of oil also work?
Hi Noluthando, there is oil in it already. You can try substitute some of the oil for shea butter and maybe reduce the cetearyl alcohol a bit
Hi , I will definetly try this. Would it be possible to add an oil/butter into this? I was thinking Shea butter
Yes i can try that the next time i make it. Thank you very much.