how to use zinc and castor oil ointment for dark spots and hyperpigmentation from acne scars

An Underrated Duo: Zinc and Castor Oil Ointment for Hyperpigmentation and Skin Repair

Cayla Mandean

If you're anything like me, you know the frustration of doing everything right, cleansing gently, exfoliating weekly, and still waking up to a surprise breakout. What's worse is the lingering post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) that sticks around long after the acne lesion is gone.

You've probably explored the heavy-hitters in the skincare world: niacinamide for its ability to visibly fade dark spots, vitamin C to brighten and protect, and bakuchiol, the gentle yet effective retinol alternative known for boosting cell turnover and improving skin tone. There are also other powerful, naturally derived ingredients that target hyperpigmentation, like azelaic acid, kojic acid and even liquorice extract (to name a few).

These active ingredients are all amazing, well-researched, widely loved by skincare experts, and have earned their place as staples in many routines… for good reason!

But if your skin is asking for something different, there's a lesser-known, multitasking option quietly gaining attention: zinc and castor oil ointment.

What is Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)?

At some point or another, you have probably experienced a pimple, maybe even a cyst or nodule. Whether it's due to hormonal shifts, stress, or dietary and lifestyle changes, an acne breakout often leaves behind an unwelcome souvenir - a dark spot.

PIH occurs when inflammation from acne or other skin trauma triggers excess melanin production, leaving behind brown or purplish marks. While not dangerous, I know how emotionally taxing it can be, especially for those of us with melanated skin, where PIH tends to be more pronounced and persistent.

Barrier disruption, prolonged inflammation, and oxidative stress all contribute to these marks overstaying their welcome.

That's where this classic combo comes in. Why might zinc and castor oil ointment become your skin's new best friend? Because it's been quietly doing just that-soothing, protecting, and healing-for generations.

What Is Zinc and Castor Oil Ointment Traditionally Used For?

Zinc and castor oil ointment isn't new, it's a time-tested staple in both home care and clinical settings. Traditionally, it has been used as a soothing barrier cream with applications far beyond the world of beauty:

  • Diaper Rash Relief: Its most common use has been in treating and preventing diaper rash in infants. The zinc forms a protective barrier while castor oil moisturises delicate skin.
  • Minor Skin Irritations: Often applied to mild abrasions, heat rashes, chafing, or insect bites, thanks to its calming and anti-inflammatory properties.
  • Eczema and Dermatitis Soothing: While not a cure, it helps manage symptoms by locking in moisture and protecting broken or sensitive skin.
  • Wound Healing Support: Used on small cuts, burns, and grazes to promote healing by creating a moist, bacteria-resistant environment.
  • Nipple Balm (Off-label): Some breastfeeding mothers use it to soothe dry, cracked nipples (under guidance), due to its gentle, nourishing texture.

This legacy of skin protection is what makes zinc and castor oil ointment so uniquely relevant, even in a modern skincare routine.

The Benefits of Zinc and Castor Oil

Zinc oxide is gentle on the skin, but it also has:

  • Anti-inflammatory properties: Zinc can suppress pro-inflammatory cytokines, helping reduce redness and irritation.
  • Wound healing: Zinc supports cellular repair and regeneration, making it ideal for skin recovering from acne.
  • Antimicrobial action: It helps control acne-causing bacteria like Propionibacterium acnes.
  • Photoprotection: Zinc oxide offers broad-spectrum UV protection, which is essential in preventing hyperpigmentation from getting darker. Did you know? Zinc oxide is also a common ingredient in sunscreens as it provides broad-spectrum UV protection by physically blocking both UVA and UVB rays. This is key when treating hyperpigmentation, as UV exposure stimulates excess melanin production and can worsen dark spots.

Castor oil, derived from the Ricinus communis plant, is rich in ricinoleic acid, a unique fatty acid known for:

  • Deep moisturisation: It creates a protective barrier that prevents water loss and is a natural moisturiser.
  • Mild anti-inflammatory effects: It can soothe irritated skin and support wound healing. Generally well-tolerated by most skin types and considered low on the comedogenic scale.
  • Antioxidant potential: It helps protect against environmental stressors that worsen PIH.
  • Fight Against Microbes: Castor oil has antimicrobial properties, which help to inhibit the growth of bacteria on the skin.

Now, imagine pairing these two together? They form a non-comedogenic, skin-loving balm that calms, protects, and subtly brightens, without the harshness of active acids.

Why Zinc and Castor Oil Work for Hyperpigmentation

Unlike acids or retinols that can sometimes thin or irritate the skin barrier when overused, zinc and castor oil work with your skin. They're gentle enough to be used daily and particularly beneficial for sensitive or compromised skin. It can work complementarily to other active ingredients.

If you have over-exfoliated, sunburned, or recently peeled skin, this combo is the perfect solution.

Especially with winter approaching, it is perfect to reinforce the skin barrier, reducing inflammation while moisturising, and shielding the skin from UV rays.

This duo tackles PIH from all sides. It won't get rid of dark marks and spots overnight, but it will support your skin in healing on its own terms, gently and naturally.

You can find zinc and castor oil ointments in pharmacies (often marketed for baby care), but if you're someone who loves DIY skincare, you can make your own with just a few basic ingredients:

where can i get zinc and castor oil ointment

Gentle DIY Zinc and Castor Oil Balm

Ingredients:

26.10% Jojoba Oil (moisturises, softens, and balances skin, mimicking the skin's natural oils)

25.00% Rosehip Oil (anti-inflammatory and fades pigmentation)

5.00% Pomegranate Seed Oil (reduces scarring and evens out skin texture)

17.00% Castor Oil

10.00% Zinc Oxide

4.00% Cetyl Alcohol (acts as an emulsifier and thickener, adding creaminess and improving texture)

5.00% OliveM 1000 (stabilises the formulation, creating a smooth and rich texture)

2.00% Beeswax (forms a protective barrier, locks in moisture, and adds firmness to the product)

2.00% Emulsifier HP 30 (ensures the oils and water components blend smoothly, enhancing the texture)

Phase B

2.50% Hydrosol of your choice (choose from a variety of hydrosols based on your desired benefit, for example, chamomile for calming or Buchu to fight acne)

Phase C

1.40% Vitamin E Oil (antioxidant)

Method

  1. Combine all Phase A ingredients in a heat-safe beaker. Using the double-boiler method, warm gently to 75°C, stirring until fully melted and uniform.
  2. Slowly add your hydrosol of choice (Phase B) into the melted mixture. Use an emulsion blender or stick blender on high speed for about 1–2 minutes to fully blend and evenly disperse the zinc oxide.
  3. Let the mixture cool to around 60–65°C, then add Vitamin E (Phase C). Stir or blend briefly to combine.
  4. Pour into containers while still warm and fluid. Let the product cool completely and set overnight before capping or using.
how to apply zinc and castor oil ointment

Customisation tips: Feel free to customise the formula by adding essential oils of your choice for added aroma or targeted benefits. For a simpler version, you can omit the Rosehip and Pomegranate Seed Oils and increase the Jojoba Oil to compensate for their combined percentage. This will maintain the balance of the formulation while streamlining your ingredient list. 

This formula creates a light balm. It forms a protective, breathable barrier that calms inflammation, reduces pigment scarring, and prevents moisture loss. Ideal for use as an overnight treatment balm or a protective daily layer for compromised or dry skin.

To use, apply a thin layer at night on dark marks or irritated areas.

Always patch test first, though ingredients are generally well-tolerated, sensitivity is personal.

Remember, acne and dark spots do not define you. As someone who’s battled SEVERE acne, the kind that hurts and sometimes still shows up uninvited, I know how heavy it can feel. But one thing that’s helped me is remembering that almost everyone, at some point, has gone through it too. You’re not alone. And guess what? It is completely normal. While zinc and castor oil ointment may not directly fade dark spots like niacinamide or vitamin C, they offer powerful barrier-supportive, healing, soothing, and protective benefits.

References

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20725554/

www.excelmale.com/attachments/zinc-and-acne-review-of-studies-pdf.9581/ 

https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/castor-oil#4-May-be-helpful-for-cleaning-and-storing-dentures 

Cayla Mandean

With a passion for skincare, wellness, and storytelling, Cayla is here to cut through the clutter and empower you with clear, research-backed, actionable knowledge to elevate your beauty routine and well-being. If she’s not outside in nature, at the gym, reading or spending time with her loved ones, you will find her creating clear, impactful content that inspires and informs. Her goal? To make sure you feel confident in your choices and enjoy the journey to an empowered, happier you!